The following information on chemical start-ups is applicable to all newly plastered swimming pools, including quartz and pebble aggregate finishes.
The first step for a superior start-up is to wait at least six hours before turning on the water to fill the pool.  This was common practice in the old days.  If filled too early, some plaster material dissolves from the surface, mainly in the deep end, leaving it porous and susceptible to further erosion and staining.
The second step is to fill the pool with water that has sufficient calcium, or more importantly, a high alkalinity (TA) level.  The best water for new plaster should have a positive Langelier Saturation Index (LSI).   Even if the tap water is balanced, it is aggressive to new fresh plaster and will remove material from the surface and negatively affect the long-term durability due to increased porosity of the surface.
Those first two steps are, for the most part, what the Bicarb Start-up program is all about.  It is not any more complicated than that.  Other start-up procedures, such as the Traditional start-up, do not deal with these two important steps, which may allow filling the pool too soon, and with aggressive tap water.  Only afterwards when the pool is full, when the damage has already occurred, is the water treated and balanced. Far more damage can occur to a new plaster surface during filling than over the following two weeks, even if not balanced.
The following is the science on how and why the Bicarb start-up method protects the plaster.
When water and pool plaster is mixed together before applying, most of the hardening plaster is comprised of calcium silicates and aluminates, and about 15 to 20 percent is calcium hydroxide.  Calcium silicates and aluminates are the hardest components, but calcium hydroxide is softer, slightly soluble, and a weaker component of pool plaster.  In fact, calcium hydroxide can be dissolved by typical balanced pool water.  The LSI is applicable to calcium carbonate, not calcium hydroxide.
This is exactly why tap water that does not have a positive LSI is not suited for new fresh pool plaster. As much as 30 pounds of calcium hydroxide and other pool plaster material can be dissolved from the plaster surface of a 20,000 gallon pool, depending on the severity of the plastering and aggressive tap water conditions. The calcium hardness of the pool water can sometimes increase 100 to 200 ppm.
It is the dissolved calcium hydroxide that becomes “plaster dust” (in the pool) as much of it is transformed into insoluble calcium carbonate by the pool water.  The amount of plaster dust formed can indicate how much material has been lost from the pool plaster surface.  The more material that is lost, the more porous and rougher the plaster surface is (as seen under magnification), the less durable it is, and the more likely dirt, iron, and copper will stick to the surface as time passes. And months later, when the plaster surface looks aged, and dull, and discolored, no one will suspect it was due to the improper or ineffective start-up program the pool received.  Whoever is maintaining the pool will be blamed for the negative change in appearance.
A Bicarb start-up prevents the loss of calcium hydroxide from the plaster, which preserves a dense (non-porous) surface, and no plaster dust forms.  Instead, it converts calcium hydroxide WITHIN the plaster surface into calcium carbonate, creating a harder, denser, smoother, and more durable surface.  And there is no increase of calcium hardness in the pool water.
The Bicarb start-up program helps prevent the pH from rising above 8.4, which generally happens in new plaster pools, and is a common battle to control the pH when filled with average tap water.  It does this by adding sufficient alkalinity (TA) to the tap water before filling, so that it is not aggressive to new plaster.  Low alkalinity water creates two problems; it can dissolve calcium hydroxide from the plaster, then the high pH (12.4) calcium hydroxide dominates the pH of the pool water causing it to rise very quickly and very high (sometimes as high as 10.5).  A minimum of 200 ppm of TA is required for proper pH control and buffering, and a higher TA may be needed if the calcium content of the tap water is low.

BiCarb start up in pool, no Bi Carb in spa

The above pictured pool/spa combo, featuring black plaster, was set up as a Bicarb start-up. You can see the barrel and hoses in the background. When we came back, the pool was crystal clear, but the spa looked like it was full of milk (especially once we brushed it!). The homeowner had come home and decided to fill the spa using non-bicarbonate tap water. What a difference!
The Bicarb start-up allows for fewer visits to control the pH. There is a reduced need for intensive brushing. Because the plaster surface is smoother and more durable, it stands up better to future acid washes and dirt and mineral stains are easier to remove. Dark colored plaster stays darker and does not become blotchy or lighter in color.  Long-term esthetics is definitely improved.  Acid start-ups can be one reason for colored plaster and quartz finishes becoming blotchy and lighter in color.
Of course, many will assume that scale will develop because of the high alkalinity level (having a positive LSI). But if the Bicarb program is done correctly, scale doesn’t form.  For over 10 years, many pool plasterers and service techs report having great success with the Bicarb start-up method. The entire pool plastering industry should adopt this start-up program to ensure quality and durable pool plaster.

For the specifics steps on the Bicarb start-up go to: http://www.poolhelp.com/handouts/oB_Bicarb%20Startup%20Method%20Handout.pdf

On Balance, December 2011

Identifying Plastering Defects on New Pool Plaster

Discolorations – New pool plaster can discolor (darken or turn gray) from adding excessive calcium chloride set accelerator, from late hard troweling, from thin and thick areas due to an uneven shell, etc. Gray (or grey) mottled discoloration (also known as “water entrapment ” or “hydration”) is difficult to remove, may be remedied by acid washing, sanding, or torching the surface, but these processes are generally detrimental to a plaster finish and the discoloration often returns later. Late hard troweling can cause “trowel burn” which darkens the plaster color in localized areas. Sanding can remove this discoloration.  Severe mottled color variation from calcium chloride or finishing issues may occur quickly or take several months to show up.

White Spotting and Streaking Deteriorations– Plaster may eventually develop white (lighter color) porous (soft) spots and streaks resulting from the addition of water to the hardened surface during late hard troweling in plaster containing excessive calcium chloride. This late hard troweling disturbs surface aggregate, and added water penetrates around that aggregate and spreads laterally through the porous paste caused by accelerated shrinkage. Beginning as excess porosity around the disturbed aggregate, soft spots expand and sometimes coalesce into larger affected areas. Disturbed zones along accent or surface tile, around fittings, etc. may also display this non-removable deterioration.

Whitened Discoloration of Colored Plaster – In time, integrally colored pool plaster may show whitening (lighter color) either uniformly or in patterns. Uniform discoloration may be caused by using incompatible admixtures: specifically color and calcium chloride. These colored plasters may also be discolored (white streaking or spotting) from the addition of water to the surface or to trowels applied to the surface during finishing. These discolorations are permanent.

Spalling – Spalling is the flaking or peeling of a thin layer (1/8 inch or less) of plaster, usually in small areas on steps and shallow end floors. It is caused by the over-troweling of the surface when the underlying paste is wet but the surface cement laitance is dry. It can also be caused by adding too much water while troweling. This usually results from improperly timed troweling, or from hot, windy or dry days. When water evaporates from the surface faster than mix water bleeding up can replace it, and then when that surface dry crust is troweled, a weakened subsurface zone is created that will be prone to spall. Spalling may occur immediately, or even years later, from surface impacts, stress from suction cleaners, or when the pool is drained, etc. Spalls may be sanded, although if a large percentage of a pool is spalled the pool may need to be replastered.

Delaminations – This is the separation of an entire new layer of plaster from its underlying substrate, whether that is old plaster, gunite or shotcrete, etc. Delaminations are usually first seen as a round surface area that has raised or pulled away from the wall, often with small cracks and nodules forming. This defect is usually caused by improper surface preparation to create a good bond with the new material.  It may manifest itself within a month or two or several years later when the pool is drained and the plaster dries out. Ground movement such as during earthquakes, can also initiate bond failure. Occasionally, some plaster areas completely pop off, exposing the underlying surface. Delaminated areas may be patched if small, but larger delaminations require replastering.

Calcium Nodules – Nodules are a form of efflorescence, or the migration of calcium salts from the plaster interior to the surface. As the calcium carbonates at surface, nodes form which may be circular volcano-type formations or stalactite-like drips down the plaster wall. They are most often associated with delaminations (as mentioned above), or with severe craze cracks, either of which allow water to penetrate the surface and dissolve and bring calcium from the interior to the exterior of the pool plaster layer. Nodules may be removed by sanding or scraping, but may recur if the delamination void or the craze network is not yet fully carbonated.

Craze Cracks – Crazing is an excessive amount of surface shrinkage cracking which can result from an overly-wet plaster mix, from excessive calcium chloride set accelerator added to the mix, from the adding of excessive water while troweling, or from excessive drying of the plaster before the pool is filled. Crazing often leads to other problems including calcium nodules, staining, and provide a home to black algae. Excessive crazing may require replastering.

Identifying Curing Effects on New Pool Plaster

Newly plastered pools must be filled at the right time, and any water exposure must be even and uniform. Filling a pool too early results in a weakened and deteriorated paste surface, especially in the bowl of the pool where the effect is worse because it may be exposed to fill water mere minutes after final troweling. The optimum fill delay (time between final troweling and filling the pool) is at least six or more hours.  (Moderate temperatures and sufficient humidity is also necessary for proper hardening and curing of plaster). This fill delay is often realized for the upper half of the pool, which may not be submerged for a day or longer depending on water pressure, while some plastering crews start the fill before they leave and thus compromise the lower areas of the pool.

Wetting of parts of the surface by rinsing down the deck, rinsing off pool steps or areas where debris falls, etc. must also be avoided, since the uneven exposure of fresh plaster to water makes permanent discoloration. The fill must also be continual – pauses in the fill may result in “bathtub ring” permanent discoloration.

Identifying Chemical Effects on New Pool Plaster

Staining – Fill water containing excessive levels of iron, copper, or other staining agents should be filtered and removed, or at least treated before the pool is filled, or, if that is not possible,  immediately upon filling the pool to the surface tile level. This kind of staining can usually be removed by acid washing, sanding or chelation. Some of these techniques are invasive to the surface, and avoiding staining is better than removing it later.

Stains or Etching from Improper Chemical Addition – Pool chemicals need to be added to the water in a manner that prevents aggressive amounts of chemical or imbalanced water from affecting the new plaster surface. Acid should always be pre-diluted before adding, salt should only be added after 30 days of plastering, and should not be allowed to sit as a solid on fresh plaster, and cyanuric acid must also not sit as a solid on new plaster.

Water Balance, Scaling and Etching – Before filling a new plaster pool, the chemistry of the fill water should be determined. Water that is too soft (aggressive) can create plaster dust, and etch or weaken the new plaster surface. Of course, once the pool is filled, APSP water chemistry parameters and the Saturation Index provide excellent guides for maintaining pool water in a manner which will minimize detrimental effects to the new plaster surface. The LSI parameters of -0.3 to +0.5 is the acceptable limit.

Etching (from low pH/alkalinity/calcium) and scaling (from high pH/alkalinity/calcium) are uniform effects across the pool surface, unless affected by areas of greater or lesser pool plaster surface porosity. The etching process can create a rough surface, but does not discolor the plaster. Calcium scale on the surface is generally rough, white, and uniform. In time, scale or an etched surface will attract dirt and minerals, and discolor. Although stains, dirt, and scale deposits can generally be removed by sanding, acid washing or chelation, etching is permanent and can only be moderately mitigated by sanding the surface.

Acid Start-ups – Swimming pools should never undergo the acid start-up process. Designed as a way to remove plaster dust without filtration, acid start-ups are too aggressive for fresh plaster and will etch the surface. Subjecting fresh plaster to water with a pH below 5 is not an appropriate substitute for doing things right in the first place.

The Bottom Line

Plaster Dust in New Pools – This is the bleeding (loss) of calcium from a weak and porous plaster surface caused by improper plastering practices and/or as a result of filling too soon or with too soft (aggressive) water. This dust can harden into a surface calcification and trap dirt or metals, creating further discoloration. Dusting from new pool plaster is preventable by properly mixing, troweling, curing the surface in moderate temperatures and with sufficient humidity, waiting at least six hours before filling, and then ensuring the chemistry of the fill water is balanced. When necessary, the fill water chemistry should be adjusted by adding sodium bicarbonate, acid, chelating or sequestering agents, etc. through a slurry tank as the pool fills. Although plaster dust can be removed by brushing and filtering, the damage from the calcium loss from the surface creates porosity and is permanent.

Prevention is the key – proper plastering procedures, proper curing, and proper water balance result in a plaster surface that is both maintainable and aesthetically pleasing. Fixing errors after-the-fact is generally less than desirable, and some detrimental effects can only be remedied by replacing the plaster.

On Balance, June 2011

Consumers with one of these drain covers in their pool or spa, and builders, installers or service companies who have installed any of these drain covers should refer to the manufacturer websites below for recall information. The Drain Cover Recall Hotline, at (866) 478-3521, is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Several other manufacturers have recalled drain covers as well. For a complete list of the manufacturers, go to cpsc.gov.

The Battle of Little Big Horn, Tyson vs. Spinks, U.S. vs. Iraq (the first time…) Pressure side pool cleaners (also referred to as Pool Sweeps) are superior to Suction side pool cleaners in every way- except price- but we’ll get to that in a moment…

First the differences:
Pressure cleaners push water to the cleaner, propelling it along the pool floor and occasionally up the walls. The pool is cleaned by the venturi vacuum the pressured water creates. The venturi effect forces leaves and debris up into a catch bag, net or screen. In addition to collecting leaves, sticks, etc., a tail is present to “scrub” the floor. This little tail is very underrated! In fact, the tail is one of the major advantages.

Whenever the cleaner is on, the tail gently whips back and forth across the pool floor. It provides a consistent scrubbing action keeping dirt from resting too long on the floor and moves it toward the main drain where it can be sucked up by the filtration pump. Suction side cleaners don’t have the tail and it’s a big reason you can tell the difference in plaster condition after five years. The pool with the suction cleaner will likely have a dull finish while the pressure side pool has a brilliant finish.

Suction cleaners literally suck water to the pump. They have a “throat” mechanism that allows dirt, sand and dust to easily pass but will clog and stop with a two inch piece of firm debris (and will remain inoperable until the homeowner clears the throat- each time!) Suction cleaners are made for areas with sand and silt and are adequate in these conditions but perform poorly if any leaves or sticks exist. Here in Folsom (Sacramento) it’s the tree the tree capital of the United States and they are useless…

One of the drawbacks at having your cleaner suck water is it takes flow away from the skimmer. Most of the dirt/ dust in your pool lies within the top 2” of the surface. When you valve suction away from the skimmer you have less flow/ suction from the surface to collect the dirt when it first enters the pool. Well, doesn’t that mean that the suction cleaner will just suck it up when it sinks to the floor? The answer is yes, only for the six hours a day it runs though and you’ve just allowed dirt to sink to the floor and given it more opportunity to stain/ dull your finish (think of it this way: will your jeans look better if you get them dirty and wash them or if you just never get dirt on them at all?) Keep the dirt off the floor as much as possible!

So you ask, if there is such a big difference between the two, why do suction cleaners even exist? Bingo: price. Suction cleaners cost half as much as pressure cleaners. To the uneducated homeowner it’s an easy sale. ‘Mr. Smith, we have a $300 cleaner and a $600 cleaner- which do you prefer?’
The bottom line is if you want to save a few dollars and are willing to constantly babysit your automatic pool cleaner then maybe a suction side cleaner is for you. If you want a cleaner that will consistently perform then a pressure side cleaner will serve you well.

Cons of Pressure side:
- Price
Pros of Suction Side cleaners:
- Less expensive

Cons of Suction Side:
- Stops operating when large leaves are present
- Clogs pump basket when it does suck up leaves
- Takes flow away from skimmer
- Foot pads wear down easily and are a recurring cost
- No scrubbing action leads to dull finish

Mike Stinson is the President of Mike the Poolman and is an eighteen year pool industry veteran specializing in Folsom Pool Service and Repair.

It has been raining hard and steady for hours now in Folsom.

If mud (usually from a hill or slope) runs into your pool, shut off the pump immediately. Trying to filter out mud will ruin the filters elements (and when the filter is plugged the shaft seal in the pump will fail and the bearings in the motor will soon fail). Most filters cannot handle the dirt load. Your only option will be to drain the pool or hire a pool service with a portable pump to vacuum out the mud.

I’ve seen this happen many, many times. If heavy mud gets into the pool it will need to be pumped out. Don’t waste money by ruining your filters in the process.
Sincerely,

Mike Stinson

Why? Historically, pool pumps with induction motors that run at only one or two speeds have drawn more energy than is required to circulate pool water. That is because a pump that can run at only one speed must use a powerful enough speed to do the pump’s most demanding job (e.g., running a waterfall or pool cleaner). However, it takes far less power to simply keep water filtered—a difference single-speed pumps cannot address.

Most variable-speed pumps can be programmed to operate at set speeds to deliver the correct flow for each task they perform, such as operating a suction-side pool cleaner, waterfalls or spa jets. Some pumps have built-in constant-flow software, which maximizes the advantages of variable-speed technology; constant-flow pumps automatically adjust their speed and deliver the required flow for each programmed task. For example, an arcing laminar water feature may need 40 gallons per minute (gpm) to produce a smooth 6-ft arc of water. A constant-flow pump can sense the resistance being added to the system as the filter collects dirt and will automatically speed up so the water feature continues to get the amount of water it needs. With other types of pumps, including some variable-speed pumps, the water feature will gradually throw a shorter arc of water as the filter gets dirtier; it will only be restored to its original appearance after the filter is cleaned.

No matter what kind of pump is being used, slower pump speeds save energy. They also dramatically reduce the noise level associated with traditional pool pumps and reduce wear on not only the pump itself but also on filters, heaters, chlorinators and other equipment that water flows through.

Sticker Shock
Even with all of these advantages, the price tag of these technologically advanced pumps may at first seem hard to justify. But compare the cost of a new variable-speed pump with the cost of doing nothing.

If a pool uses a single-speed pump, it may cost $900 per year to run that pump. (Numbers will vary by region.) After five years, the owners will have spent $4500 running that pump. Meanwhile, in a well-designed system with a variable-speed pump, the comparable operational costs may be as little as $200 per year. So at the end of five years, the dollars spent running the pump will be about $1000, less than 1/4 what would have been spent running the old single-speed pump. The cost savings continue to multiply the longer the new pump is used.

Bottom line: the initial cost of a variable-speed pump can be recouped in year two.

 By Jeff Farlow
Program Manager – Energy Initiatives/ RePrinted from Pentair Pool

For more info on variable speed pumps visit the Mike the Poolman variable speed pump page.

Ever have a pair of jeans that don’t get washed enough? What happens? They stain! The dirt gets embedded in the fabric and the jeans take on the color of the dirt.

The same is true of your plaster, pebble, quartz, hydrazzo and various other finishes: if you don’t run a brush over the surface regularly it will stain.

So how does someone brush properly?
It’s really easy: use a nylon (or 50/50 nylon/stainless steel) pool brush. Make sure the bristles are in good shape- they will deteriorate of left in the sun. Fasten the brush to you telepole and run the brush down the walls and over all the steps. If you have a pool/spa combo make sure and get all areas of the spa. You don’t have to muscle up, just run the brush over the area and let the bristles do their thing.

What areas do you skip?
Most people don’t brush the floor of the pool and I’m okay with that. As long as you have an automatic pool cleaner with a tail, it will scrub the floor for you (more on pool cleaners in this blog…). If your pool cleaner doesn’t have a tail then its best to get the floor too- this is a real pain so it’s another reason to have a good pressure side pool cleaner. Remember, the pool cleaner doesn’t clean or brush the spa so it’s up to you to include this section of your investment.

Brushing keeps the pool finish smother. Dirt build up makes it rougher. Spend 5-10 minutes each week to keep that sparkle or hire your local pool service to do it for you.

Mike the Poolman is an eighteen year pool industry veteran specializing in Folsom Pool Service and Repair

If you aren’t aware, Mitch Brooks, the Executive Director of the National Plasterers Council (NPC), responded to our (onBalance) write-ups on “Gray Mottling Discoloration”by saying that the NPC disagrees with what we have written.  We responded by asking him to specifically identify what they disagree with, and to state the NPC’s official position on the causes of gray discoloration.  Mitch then responded by saying that the NPC would not publicly debate this issue, and those interested would have to contact him directly to learn what they (NPC) disagree with. Mitch also stated that “the NPC solves issues….not point fingers which is what you guys (onBalance) love to do!”

For those of you who have been on the short end of the NPC’s collective finger, or specifically the finger pointed by the NPC’s Technical Director, Greg Garrett, that comment by Mr. Brooks sound pretty incredible. For those of you who are unaware of the type of finger pointing Mr. Garret engages in consider the following:

In April of 2001 Greg Garrett associated what he called “spot etching” and “highlighting” with aggressive water chemistry (pool in Phoenix AZ – see oB-00004). He also specified that there as no responsibility on the plasterer involved. The professional laboratory analysis then showed that the real culprit was the plastering company and its workmanship.

In August of 2003 Greg Garrett associated mottled white discoloration of colored plaster with aggressive water chemistry (pool in Tracy CA – see oB-00005D). He also specified that there was no responsibility on the plasterer involved. The professional laboratory analysis then showed that the real culprit was the plastering company and its workmanship.

In August of 2003 Greg Garrett also associated patterned white spotting of colored plaster with aggressive water chemistry (pool in Tracy CA – see oB-00005M). He also specified that there was no responsibility on the plasterer involved. The professional laboratory analysis then showed that the real culprit was the plastering company and its workmanship.

In December of 1994 Greg Garrett associated spot etching with aggressive water chemistry (pool in Phoenix AZ – see oB-00019). He also specified that there was no responsibility on the plasterer involved. The professional laboratory analysis then showed that the real culprit was the plastering company and its workmanship.

In August of 2007 Greg Garrett associated “etching, highlighting, and associated discoloration” with aggressive water chemistry (pool in Highland CA – see oB-00040). He also specified that there was no evidence of improper workmanship on the part of the plasterer involved… even though the plaster had delamination and cracking though which the gunite could be seen beneath, and the plaster subsequently began to literally fall of the side of the pool! The professional laboratory analysis showed that there was no evidence of any etching. Of course the real problem – massive delamination – was indeed a result of substandard workmanship on the part of the plastering company.

In September of 2009 Greg Garrett associated mottling discoloration with aggressive water chemistry (pool in Tarzana CA – see oB-00044). He also specified that there was no responsibility on the plasterer involved. The professional laboratory analysis then showed that the real culprit was the plastering company and its workmanship.

Mr. Garrett is making a cottage industry of visiting pools and blaming water chemistry when the actual causes are known mixing, placement and curing defects documented in conventional cement/concrete science. We have many more reports written by Mr. Garrett that are along the same lines.

Keep in mind that this isn’t just a pattern of making incorrect assessments – these are real pools where real pool owners and/or service techs were put at risk for paying to replaster pools when the fault lay with the plastering contractor.

We understand that Mr. Garrett, as well as onBalance partners, specifically visit pools where the whole point is to make a determination as to causation and responsibility. But it has always been our understanding that such determinations should be based on fact and science, rather than apologetics.

Feel free to click on the links and see the comparison between onBalance determinations and Mr. Garrett’s. We hope these examples illustrate the absurdity of Mr. Brooks’ claim that it is onBalance that is “pointing fingers.”

onBalance October 2010

Mike the Poolman: 916-985-7665

onBalance – Que Hales, Doug Latta and Kim Skinner

 We recently authored an article entitled Ten Steps to Quality Pool Plaster. The purpose of that article was to point out that there are professional, quality practices that ensure quality plaster finishes; and that although the vast majority of plaster finishers are intimately familiar with and adhere to these steps, a minority of the profession violate them at will, with the resulting poor finishes giving the entire industry a bad reputation. This is especially important to us in the service industry on those occasions when the results of poor plastering practices have been blamed inappropriately on chemical treatment.

We felt that a good follow-up would be to discuss ten steps contributing toward quality, professional chemical care of swimming pools. As with the plaster article, these ten items cannot be considered comprehensive, yet following them will result in avoiding the vast majority of possible chemical-related pitfalls.

We hope you enjoy considering them as much as you enjoyed the last offering.

Step 1 – Testing – Test your pools!

This is basic, and can actually be fun when the technology is explored. Make sure to test consistently with a quality, appropriate test kit. Remember that some technology may be most appropriate for spot checks or supplemental pool owner testing, where others may be expensive and/or sensitive enough to only be appropriate in your lab.

Poolside tests should be made with frequencies in line with how fast an analyte can change: sanitizer and pH usually get tested every time, while calcium or TDS may be tested much less frequently. Of course, at regulated pools there may be a specified frequency at which each test must be taken.

Remember to document readings and chemical usage at every visit.

Step 2 – Treatment – The primary concern we have about chemical treatment is the health of the people using the pool. Don’t get so caught up in (important but secondary) issues such as algae control, water balance, filtration, etc. that you neglect disinfecting the water. Know the ANSI-APSP chemistry recommendations and use them, understand and follow chemical labels, and address chemical issues promptly rather than waiting until the next service visit.

Step 3 – The Saturation Balance – Balanced water is important in sustaining the life of cement-based components of the pool surface. The service professional will maintain balance (-0.3 to +0.5 LSI) in the pool by either calculating and adjusting the water according to the saturation index when servicing the pool… or by simply maintaining the water chemistry levels within the ideal ANSI-APSP ranges. Note that maintaining water at the bottom end of the ideal pool ranges (pH 7.4, TA 80, CH 200, 78ºF, CyA 20, with a TDS around 500) results in a balanced SI of -0.3, and maintaining water at the top end of the ideal pool ranges (pH 7.6, TA 120, CH 400, 82ºF, with a TDS around 1000) results in a balanced SI of +0.5.

Of course, high calcium can be offset by lower pH or TA, high TDS can be offset by higher calcium, etc. We at onBalance actually prefer a higher pH – around 8.0. However, we compensate with a higher cyanuric acid level plus borax, resulting in sufficient total alkalinity while lowering the carbonate alkalinity. (Try playing around with these values on our fun, free and dynamic Saturation Index Calculator at http://sic.poolhelp.com/)

Step 4 – Proper Chemical Addition – When adding chemicals to water, there are two principles that will protect both service techs and swimming pools, as well as promoting optimum blending. The first is to pre-dilute less soluble chemicals before adding them to pools. This helps to ensure that high concentrations of, for example, acids, pool salt, or other aggressive chemicals do not come in direct contact with alkaline interior pool surfaces with the potential for aggressive damage to those surfaces. The second principle is to always add chemicals to water, not water to chemicals. Moistening such widely different chemicals as acidic muriatic acid and basic calcium hypochlorite can result in relatively violent reactions that can potentially injure the service tech.

Leave pre-blending chemicals to the manufacturer – inappropriate mixing of incompatible chemicals can result in fire and/or explosion, and inappropriate mixing can even include such practices as putting trichlor tabs in an in-line feeder and then adding calcium hypochlorite through the skimmer. Bang! Read labels and follow safety instructions.

Step 5 – Additional Chemical Safety – Because of the potential for damage to persons and property, additional care needs to bepaid to the storage, transportation, and disposal of hazardous pool chemicals.

For example: Storage – Have you made sure that you do not store acids on shelves above bases, have you made sure that chemicals are stored off the floor to keep them out of possible water leaks, have you secured tip-able containers to prevent spillage and possible earthquake disasters? In terms of Transportation, are you aware of federal, state and local rules regarding the loading of various chemicals in route trucks? Are you aware of the maximum amounts you may transport without a Commercial Driver’s License, a HazMat endorsement, and truck placards? As far as Disposal is concerned, are you familiar with the federally and locally appropriate ways to dispose of those wet gooey trichlor tabs, or that rotting jug of who-knows-what that your new account asked

you to remove from her garage?

Step 6 – The Water Clarity Tripod – There are three factors contributing to water clarity: chemistry, filtration and circulation.

Make sure that the chemicals are balanced. pH levels above 8.3, for example, will precipitate calcium, resulting in cloudy water.

Make sure the filter is functioning efficiently, removing suspended solids.

And make sure the circulation is efficient (moving water round and round and top to bottom) and that the system circulates long enough per day to deliver the right amount of water to that filter you are maintaining so efficiently.

Step 7 – Specialty Chemicals – The experienced service tech will not always need specialty chemicals to maintain a particular pool – but when one is needed, we must know the products, their strengths, interactions, and cost benefits. These chemicals can include algaecides, clarifiers, stain preventives, sanitizer boosters, etc. There are also special “delivery systems” such as salt systems to generate and deliver chlorine, ionizers to deliver copper and silver as algaecides, etc.

Step 8 – Start-up Chemistry – The experienced tech will be familiar with the various methods of starting up the chemistry in new plaster pools, as well as their relative strengths and weaknesses.Be prepared to do traditional and bicarb starts right, as needed, and be prepared to explain why you do not want to do an acid start…

Understand the important roles of brushing and vacuuming, documentation of all initial startup procedures and treatments, prompt communication of all startup concerns with involved professionals, and contacting resources when you encounter difficulties.

Be sure all cleaning devices are operational and cannot scratch or gouge plaster. And regardless of the type of startup, never leave

fresh plaster untended for long periods of time.

Step 9 – Never Stop Learning – The fact that you are reading this publication shows that you are interested in furthering your knowledge of your craft. We at onBalance research, write, teach and publish because we share that interest. There is always more to learn and understand, and most of it will have direct applications that will benefit both your customers and your bottom line.

Whether it is new ways to balance chemicals, new ways to treat problems, or even increasing attention to water safety such as repairing gates, protecting pets and certifying in CPR… the professional chemical service tech never stops adding to his or her fund of knowledge and skill through industry publications, online resources, trade shows and other classes.

Step 10 – Join and Contribute – We feel that quality chemical service includes being involved and up-to-date. Join your industry’s trade association(s), learn and lend a hand. Become a member – unite and support!

http://poolhelp.com

Mike the Poolman: 916-985-7665